Hanoi’s Old Quarter is a bustling hub of traffic, commerce, and tourism. Visitors opt to lodge in this historical district of Vietnam’s main city to immerse themselves in its distinctive mix of weaving motorcycles, street-side eateries, and an overwhelming soundscape.
However, despite the congested roads being an integral part of the Old Quarter — where hotels frequently offer guests tips on navigating through them — growing tourism is putting more pressure on the limited space within its narrow lanes.
Up until lately, tour buses used to navigate through the narrow pathways to pick up day trippers from their hotels, leading to significant traffic jams. This practice has since been prohibited; however, taxis and Grab (the Southeast Asian equivalent of Uber) vehicles continue to congest the roads.
For those travelers who prefer navigating through the hustle and bustle intermittently, the adjacent French Quarter serves as an excellent location. Featuring spacious avenues, a serene lake, and luxurious accommodations, this area offers some respite with easy access via a brief stroll back to the Old Quarter.
It offers an intriguing look at the French influences introduced through colonialism, which eventually merged with Hanoi’s culture to create something distinctively new.
Relax by Hanoi’s Hoàn Kiếm Lake
In Hanoi, it’s inevitable to avoid the constant hum of motorcycles and the symphony of car horns, yet Hồ Gươm Lake at the outskirts of the French District offers a tranquil retreat. Strolling beside the water, you can gaze out over the lush greens.
water
towards the moss-covered Turtle Tower – where reptiles formerly dwelled in the nearby waters – located on an island at the center.
At the northern end stands Ngoc Son Temple. This temple, devoted to writing, scholarship, and literary pursuits, serves as an important site of veneration for students gearing up for their examinations. An vibrant red bridge connects to this small sanctuary.
island
where the loud noise of the traffic turns into a faint murmur within the temple boundaries.
Sitting in the leafy courtyard surrounded by trees, observing a cat meandering past, and hearing sporadic bursts of pop music floating over from Zumba sessions at the lakeside can be quite delightful. Rise early to participate alongside Hanoi’s vibrant community as they start their day with exercise.
Experience egg coffee where it originated.
Vietnam has turned coffee into a completely distinct beverage. Each significant city within the nation boasts its own special blend. In Ho Chi Minh City, you’ll find coconut-infused coffee, whereas in Hue, it comes crowned with savory cream. In Hanoi, due to the scarcity of milk and cream during the French occupation in the 1940s, a creative barkeep devised an egg coffee.
coffee
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Nguyen Van Giang was employed at the bar of the Grand Metropole Hotel, which remains operational and now belongs to the Sofitel chain. Having commenced operations in 1901—a year prior to Hanoi being designated as the capital of French Indochina—the hotel soon attracted colonials and international visitors. Facing a shortage of milk for his patrons, Nguyen incorporated beaten egg yolks mixed with honey and sugar into the coffee preparation, serving it above a container filled with warm water.
Stop by the Metropole’s Le Club Bar today to take a seat at the birthplace of egg coffee. This bright, plant-filled greenhouse offers a serene escape and serves classic French dishes such as Niçoise salad, onion soup, and croque monsieur.
Alternatively, you have the option to visit either of two
coffee joints
Nguyen’s establishment, which was taken over by his heirs, operates here today. Located at the northern edge of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, you can discover Café Dinh. Ascend to the upper level where you can enjoy a cup of sweet Hanoi coffee alongside local artists and authors.
Where to Stay in the French Quarter at Capella Hanoi
The city’s
luxury hotel
A quarter can be spotted in the areas surrounding Hanoi’s rococo-style Opera House, a dome-topped, pastel-colored structure built-in 1901.
Capella Hanoi
This place is an extravagant and whimsical reinterpretation of a meeting point where legendary figures from the world of opera—singers and composers alike—might have gathered following their last performance.
Created by renowned architect Bill Bensley, this establishment blends 1920s Art Deco Paris aesthetics with Vietnamese cultural elements in an extravagant mix. Bensley dedicated considerable time collecting souvenirs such as theater programs, musical instruments, gloves, and even opera lessons to adorn the space.
hotel
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The restaurant on the ground floor, which has received a Michelin recommendation, goes by the name Backstage. Its luxurious red velvet seats, full-length curtains, and sparkling outfits hung on the walls beautifully capture the essence of backstage activity.
Every level focuses on a distinct element of opera – including drama, music, and celebrities. The design echoes these ideas with specific touches like a small theater showcasing bead-adorned outfits on the drama section; an area featuring a powdering station along the performer’s walkway; and musical equipment combined with Picasso-esque artworks at the music zone.
Every one of the 47 rooms has its own distinct theme, each named for a musician, actress, composer, or opera. Inside, you’ll find references to traditional Vietnamese craftsmanship such as embroidered silk cushions, pendant lanterns adorned with hanging tassels, and black rattan seating.
The hotel partners with local talents for experiences such as pottery sessions with inhabitants of Bat Trang Ceramic Village and lacquer art lessons led by Tran Anh Tuan, who is a distinguished instructor at Hanoi University of Industrial Fine Arts.
Hanoi’s food scene is renowned, earning it the title of top culinary destination from the World Culinary Awards in 2024. Visitors staying at Backstage can enjoy meals prepared according to the private recipes of Madame Anh Tuyet, whose talent caught the eye of Chef Anthony Bourdain for his show “No Reservations.” Her rendition of pho—featuring an aromatic broth paired with beef brisket—is particularly impressive when served as a morning meal.
Return to the past at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel.
Staying at the
Sofitel Legend Metropole
(The place where egg coffee originated) offers the nearest experience to traveling back in time to Hanoi during the French colonial era—from the staff’s ‘bonjour’ welcome to the presence of upscale boutiques like Hermes and Chopard within the premises.
The Heritage Wing originates from 1901, whereas the Opera Wing was added in 1996. Within the older section, a newly set up exhibit outlines the chronological progression of the structure.
hotel
From its inauguration through its involvement in two conflicts up until the rebuilding efforts in 1992, it has captivated visitors with the wealth of history contained within its walls.
In 1946, ex-president Ho Chi Minh had a meeting at the hotel with General Etienne Valuie, who was the commander of Indo-China, and Nguyen Hai Than, the president of Vietnam’s Provisional Government, as part of discussions for Vietnamese independence.
Throughout the American occupation, all male and female employees at the hotel underwent military training. The sidewalk in front of the entrance, previously used for guest gatherings over coffee, was excavated to construct bomb shelters that visitors can currently explore with an accompanying guide. Singer-songwriter Joan Baez found inspiration for her album “Where Are You Now, My Son?” during her stay of 11 days within one of these underground bunkers housed in the hotel.
Since guests no longer have to concern themselves with seeking protection from air raids, they can ample time to relish the hotel’s comprehensive amenities. Within the main atrium, you will find a delightful space for enjoyment.
outdoor pool
Equipped with sun loungers. Each morning, you can make your way up to Le Balcon for yoga or tai chi sessions.
And once you’re prepared to leave the hotel and dive into the bustling energy of Hanoi, don’t forget to say ‘au revoir’ to the doorman.