As voyagers, we frequently ponder what it would be like not just to traverse vast spaces but also to navigate through different eras. Could there possibly be somewhere—a location or perhaps a device—that could take us back to times when existence seemed simpler and more carefree, where sustenance was sourced directly from the waters, and evenings resonated with the calming sound of coastal waves beneath a canopy of twinkling celestial bodies stretching out as far as one’s eyes can see?
Indeed, there exists such a location in the Philippines: the isolated village of Chavayan situated on the island of Sabtang within Batanes province. This community, inhabited by roughly 200 individuals, boasts sturdy stone dwellings—many constructed more than a hundred years ago—and preserves age-old customs that have molded the Ivatan people for over 4,000 years.
Ancestry and architecture
The Ivatans trace their roots back to Austronesian settlers who reached these islands during the Neolithic age. These early inhabitants resided in protected hillside villages known as idiangs and communicated using a dialect akin to those spoken by Taiwan’s indigenous communities. In 1783, Batanes officially joined the Philippines under Governor-General José Basco y Vargas. Throughout Spain’s rule, techniques involving lime for constructions emerged, leading to the creation of structures like bridges, pathways, and places of worship. This approach was embraced by the Ivatan people to build robust stonework homes capable of enduring the area’s severe climatic conditions. Numerous buildings from this epoch remain intact today; some of the finest preserved specimens are observable in Chavayán.
Getting there
Reaching Chavayan isn’t simple since Sabtang Island lacks an airport. You start by flying either from Manila or Clark to Basco in Batanes. From there, you go overland to Ivana Port and board a 30-minute falowa boat trip to Mahatao. Next, hop onto a tricycle for another half-hour journey until you get to Chavayan. The path to this paradise involves some challenges—flights can be grounded because of bad weather, so travelers frequently spend the night in Basso to secure seats on the first-thing-in-the-morning ferry to Sabtang, scheduled at 6 a.m.
In contrast to the usual outrigger boats prevalent in the Philippines, the falowa is an indigenous vessel without outriggers, crafted specially to traverse the tumultuous seas between Batan and Sabtang islands. Starting from the harbor in Mahatao, one has roughly six kilometers left to reach Chavayan. This trip can be made using touristic tricycles equipped with wooden sidecars adorned with cogon roofs, or alternatively, intrepid travelers might choose to walk.
The road to Chavayan
The six-kilometer route from Mahatao to Chavayan presents some of the most beautiful road views in the country, giving travelers a preview of the wonders ahead. In Mahatao, you can admire centuries-old stone structures like the historic San Vicente Ferrer Church, constructed in 1844, as well as the charming Mahatao Lighthouse.
Halfway through your journey is Barangay Savidug, a village recognized for its intact stonework houses. Perched atop an adjacent hill is the historic Savidug idiang, estimated to date back about 4,000 years. Constructed during prehistoric times, these ancient mountaintop fortresses served as shelters against both hostile forces and environmental dangers for the early settlers.
Right before reaching Chavayan, visitors have the option to take a side trip to the Chamantad-Tinan Viewdeck. With a brief ascent up the gently sloping, verdant hills, one is rewarded with an breathtaking view of Chamantad Cove and its secluded sandy shore.
Frozen in time
At the journey’s conclusion, Chavayan conveys an atmosphere where time seems frozen. Over the last 12 years, during my three visits, little has altered; the unchanging vista that welcomed travelers a hundred years back persists even now.
On the right side of the village entrance is a small store run by the Sabtang Weavers Association. The people of Chavayan are famed for crafting the best vakul (a woven headgear) and kanayi (a vest) in Batanes. Made from the leaves of the vuyavuy tree, the vakul protects against sun and rain and can double as a mat or small pillow for field workers. Locals also produce unique sandals from vuyavuy, affectionately named “Chavayanas.”
Down below is a modest chapel devoted to Sta. Rosa de Lima, built from 1951 to 1959 featuring a thatched roof made of cogon grass, reflecting the Ivatan tradition known as yaru—akin to the Filipino value of bayanihan. Guests staying over might catch sight of communal prayers conducted early in the morning when residents seek blessings for protection and prosperity prior to heading off either fishing or farming activities.
A journey into the past
In Chavayan, both electricity and mobile phone signals are scarce, and lodging options are quite rudimentary. The food typically includes either flying fish or mahi-mahi, cooked according to traditional methods. This place isn’t suited for all travelers—it’s an option only for those daring enough to immerse themselves fully in a lifestyle that harks back to earlier times and observe ways of living that have mostly vanished from more developed areas.
In Chavayan, contemporary amenities yield to more traditional, enduring patterns of life—a testament to areas where history continues to thrive vividly. For those eager to embark on a voyage that spans not only geography but also traverses the annals of time, visiting Chavayan promises an exceptional and indelible adventure.