Only 45 minutes south of Porto, the Atlantic shoreline reveals an impressive collection of sunny beaches, expansive pine woodlands, charming wooden paths, and preserved lagoons. Stretching from São Jacinto to Esmoriz, this untouched coastal area provides a striking difference compared to the northern beach destinations, and can be discovered on foot, by bicycle, or by vehicle.
Saint James and the Aveiro Lagoon
Situated at the end of the Aveiro lagoon, approximately sixty kilometers from Porto, São Jacinto consists of a thin strip of land sandwiched between the ocean and the tranquil waters of the Ria. This secluded village hosts the Reserva Natural das Dunas de São Jacinto, an area spanning more than 700 hectares, safeguarded due to its rich variety of ecosystems and abundant bird populations. A marked path extends for three kilometers through this region. Initially, it passes over moving dunes and their early plant life, then enters a thick pine woodland inhabited by owls, warblers, and shrikes. The trail proceeds near marshy areas filled with shorebirds, eventually reaching a wide shoreline, where the sea and sands extend for eight kilometers toward Torreira.
Torreira, amid golden sands and conventional vessels
The town of Torreira is located at the point where the wild area of São Jacinto merges with the fishing communities around the Aveiro lagoon. On the sea-facing side, the beach features golden sand dunes and remains largely undeveloped, extending for many kilometers. It can be reached through wooden pathways designed to safeguard nearby vegetation from damage caused by people. On the lagoon side,
moliceiros
– Traditional vessels featuring decorated hulls continue to be anchored within the inner canal, leftovers from an abandoned seaweed cultivation practice. In the harbor, these boats sit with their sails neatly gathered before the storage buildings. During periods of low water level, gray herons come close to the shoreline to calmly catch fish in the shallow areas.
– Boats adorned with colorful exteriors remain tied up in the internal channel, symbols of a once-active seaweed harvesting industry that has since ceased. Within the dock area, they lie idle with their sails secured ahead of the storehouses. When the tides recede, white egrets move toward the coast to quietly hunt for food in the shallow regions.
– Classic canoes having vibrant outer shells are still found tethered inside the narrow waterway, signs of a former kelp growing operation that is currently unused. The ships stay put at the wharf with their canvases rolled up near the stockrooms. As the sea withdraws, black-crowned terns venture onto land to leisurely pursue prey in the shallows.
The Maceda woodland, elevated pathways through the pine trees
Further north, from Furadouro to Esmoriz, the shoreline is completely covered by the Dunas de Ovar forest, which was established in the late 19th century.
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A century ago, efforts were made to prevent the dunes from encroaching further. At its center lies the Maceda Forest, a large pine woodland featuring broad, straight trails where maritime pines, gorse, heather, and moss flourish. This untouched forest offers excellent opportunities for bird watching. Multiple trails pass through the woods and reach the coastline. One of the most well-known ones leads to the impressive Praia de São Pedro de Maceda, a lengthy sandy shore that can be reached solely on foot. Newly renovated wooden pathways rise up the dunes before winding down toward the beach. The scenery is free of structures, except for a modest seasonal observation cabin. Even during pleasant weather, this place provides a serene escape away from the masses.
Esmoriz and the Barrinha, uncovering a restored pond
As you near Esmoriz, the final station before heading back to
Porto
The landscape shifts. Even though the urban area becomes more crowded, this is where one of the most remarkable environmental improvement initiatives along the Portuguese coastline starts: the Barrinha de Esmoriz. Once a lagoon, it was restored in 2017 and now features a three-kilometer walking trail built on a raised wooden walkway. The pathway rises on pillars, meanders over reed fields, loops past water bodies, crosses multiple inlets, and passes near bird nesting sites. Over a hundred different bird species can be spotted annually here, such as the common tern, great cresteds grebe, and black-necked stilt. There are viewing decks and informational signs spread out along the route. The gently curving Esmoriz Beach is conveniently reachable via the path. As you continue further north, you soon arrive at the more rugged Praia do Cantinho.
Essential information for planning your trip from Porto
The shoreline from São Jacinto to Esmoriz can be completely visited in one day’s driving, making brief visits at every location along the path. Should you prefer using public transportation, the most convenient choice is to board the train for Aveiro, followed by a boat ride to São Jacinto (leaving from Forte da Barra), after which you can head north either on foot or via regional services. Cycling enthusiasts can utilize dedicated bike trails that span most of this journey, featuring extended, mostly level, car-free stretches between Torreira and Esmoriz. Ready? Let’s begin!