There’s a magical pond located in
Ballaglass Glen
Carved deeply into the old flagstones, surrounded by oak, larch, and beech trees, it’s nourished by a waterfall, sparkling with beams of light, and likely conceals something secretive.
mooinjer
veggey
– Manx Gaelic term for the mythical “little people.” As I slipped my weary legs into the freezing-cold water, I experienced a surge of excitement.
It was the most splendid day as I took on my first of the island’s eight newly developed areas.
summit walks
; Among these medium-to-challenging routes, 25 out of the Isle of Man’s 300-metre-plus peaks have been conquered. Despite its modest size—only stretching 33 miles long and 13 miles wide at its furthest extents—the island boasts ample rough landscapes and rewarding ascents.
According to Kate Bergquist, who serves as a walking ambassador for the Isle of Man and founded Soul Adventures, there lies unexplored adventure. She assisted in organizing these summit hikes with the aim to lure trekkers away from coastal paths, demonstrating that the island offers much more than just leisurely tours and seaside strolls. “The highlands present quite a contrast,” she explains to me. “From here, you can enjoy expansive vistas encompassing all seven realms: England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Mann, Sky, and Sea.”
I had boarded a ferry from Liverpool to the island with the aim of proving that I, as a woman, could conquer Man without using a car within just three days. On the first day, during my journey, I encountered Kate onboard the ferry.
Snaefell Mountain Railway
— which has been cheerfully ascending to the island’s 620-meter peak since 1895 — was a success. The wind was persistent, yet the sky remained clear and blue as we departed from the train tourists heading into the seven-mile stretch.
northeastern summit five-peak challenge
Route. “She’s quite ripe,” Kate smiled.
We looked at all of it: the smooth northern plains, the canyon-scarred south, the deep green waves of the Irish Sea, and the far-off Lake District.
We were tracking along an unoccupied, wave-like crest, heading towards a pointed destination.
North Barrule
— At 565 meters, this is the island’s second-highest summit. During our walk, we discussed various topics ranging from the reintroduction of Manx-language place names on maps to the Moddey Dhoo, a legendary black dog believed to haunt the area. We enjoyed some food as well.
Manx
bonnag
, the tastiest spiced soda bread. We looked out at every view: the vast expanse of the north plains, the canyon-scarred south, the dark waves of the Irish Sea, and the far-off Lake District.
Kate is enthusiastic about how spending time in natural settings can positively impact mental well-being. “Nobody has ever felt worse after taking a stroll in the woods,” she stated confidently as we made our way down through the ferns towards Ballaglass. “Cold water—there’s nothing more potent.”
I definitely felt great after the entire adventure, which concluded with me giving Cornaa, an unofficial stopping point close to the glen, a thumbs-up before cheerfully returning to Douglas via the island’s electric train.
My schedule for day two involved covering a portion of the 10-mile route.
central east summits
The route begins with a brief taxi journey from Douglas. However, our attempt started poorly as my driver overlooked the trailhead—an unsettlingly named spot.
Windy Corner
— Due to the heavy rainfall and clouds obscuring the highland characteristics. He turned around, and I ventured out into a demoralizing thick fog. Questioning my choice, I set off across an expansive, pathless moor, sinking knee-deep into damp tufts of grass.
As the clouds briefly parted, I noticed ravines extending to one side. Trusting my OS map, mobile app, and perhaps some divine intervention, I reached a wooden gate set within a stone fence. A short stretch of charming forest lifted my spirits momentarily before I carried on, quickly merging onto an expansive, well-defined path. However, the ground beneath me remained rough and jagged, with rain pouring heavily, pushing the boundaries of what could be considered mildly enjoyable activity. Upon reaching the 546-meter-high Beinn-y-Phott—though I couldn’t spot it—I opted out, heading towards the mountain road where I had to dodge wet patches and vehicles until arriving at Bungalow station drenched and disheartened. From there, thoroughly soaked and beaten, I boarded the mountain train back down to Laxey.
Kate mentioned to me that out of the eight hikes, her favorite was the 12-mile one.
southwestern peaks and Niarbyl coastline
path, which I had dismissed due to its difficult accessibility. However, coincidentally, this route turned out to be available.
bus
from Douglas to tiny
Niarbyl
The following day, I figured I might as well take a slight detour and include some coastal paths to get to the small seaside town of Port Erin, which would make the journey about 15 miles long; assuming everything went smoothly, I’d return to Douglas via the historic 150-year-old steam railway, feeling quite victorious. When I asked for Kate’s opinion, she responded with, “Epic plan.”
On Saturday morning, with the sunlight beaming down, I got on a bus traveling around the island. There was just one more traveler who mentioned his intention of hiking at Niarbyl too. He went on to share details about the yearly Parish Walk—a grueling 85-mile race covering every church on the island, which has been happening every June since the mid-19th century. It turned out he had triumphed in this event before. We reached our stop by the ocean where the road ended, exchanged good wishes, and then he quickly drove away. Taking my own sweet time, I proceeded onward.
Kate was right. The path we took was spectacular. Initially, I went north via the roadway, then passed through fragrant gorse and bracken. At the point where Glen Maye’s mouth joined the shore, I continued along the valley as it wound inward; lush, babbling, narrow, and twisty, ending with a hidden cascade plunging down—a scene even more enchanting than Ballaglass. Further ahead,
Glen Maye
I followed a path next to a narrow stream, with the sunlight shimmering on the water stained reddish-brown and catching the rainbow-like wings of damselflies.
The Hill of the Day Watch is where locals used to keep an eye out for Viking raiders.
The climb up to the 483-meter-high South Barrule was brief but challenging, forming an out-and-back route. Eager to complete it after tackling its northern counterpart, I set forth. South Barrule served as a Celtic Iron Age hillfort; archaeological digs revealed numerous remnants of roundhouses within its bounds. On sunny days, the expansive view from atop makes evident why this location held significant tactical importance.
I went downhill and soon after started climbing up another hill to reach the 437-meter-high Cronk ny Arrey Laa (Hill of the Day Watch). This place used to be where locals watched for Viking ships. Nowadays, it’s great for observing nesting birds and enjoying panoramic views of the rugged western coastline. The trail was supposed to head north toward Niarbyl from there. However, I decided to go my own way and turned south with the aim of reaching Port Erin and taking in more scenery along the way.
Raad ny Foillan
the route that circles along the shoreline of the island.
It wasn’t easy. The southwestern part of the Isle of Man boasts the island’s tallest and rockiest shores—steep, dramatic, and awe-inspiring. I struggled through thick vegetation and hauled myself uphill, feeling my calves strain. Yet when I looked up, I saw a shimmering expanse of silvery water stretching as far as Ireland;rabbits darting about and seagulls circling overhead;cliffs rising sharply, slanting, plunging, and climbing skyward.
Ultimately, the 19th-century battlements of
Milner’s Tower
famous for Port Erin Bay. After about another mile, I reached the town’s crescent-shaped sandy shore, sipping a chilled beer from the beach bar.
I examined the destruction: broken branches, hair tousled by the wind, an uncertain smell. Yet, still alive — and humming with activity.
The journey was supplied by
visitisleofman.com
.
Mannin Hotel
In Douglas, the B&B offers double rooms starting from
£105pn
.
Soul Adventures
arranges escorted tours, outdoor swimming, and various other activities.
Liverpool-Douglas
foot-passenger returns from £
52 pp. Ferries also operate from Heysham and Belfast.